Just a five-minute walk from Geneva station is a restaurant you’ll fast add to your list of favourites. It’s fine dining, but without fuss. It’s refined and it’s elevated, but everyone is welcome. And it puts atmosphere first, obvious the second you walk in greeted like you come every week.
Self-described as “bistronomique”, Le Bologne is a blend of bistro and gastronomy that is all about making high cuisine accessible. Elegance can’t be pretentious when served in a dark-wood space designed like a retro brasserie. With a big focus on seasons and local produce, the ever-changing menu stays loyal to classic French cooking with winks from round the world.
Our table took advantage of game season and between us we had chamois paté laced with pistachio and quince and venison medallions with buckwheat crumble, pear, and spinach spätzli. There was also a beautiful piece of cod sourced from a post-modern gallery, smeared in cuttlefish-ink with cauliflower and plum. What kept me most from group conversation, out of sheer focus and enjoyment, was the beef fillet with aubergine rolls and a deep satay sauce.
Le Bologne has five options for each course and daily signatures chalked on a board. But there are some dishes that will cause a riot if they disappear. The celeriac risotto with black truffle and foie gras is credited with bringing notoriety to the place and has been on it since it opened in 2017. As has variations of their Iberian pork (pata negra) with teriyaki sauce. Of equal fame among my friends is their side of mousseline; extremely buttery mash laced with wasabi or more truffle.
The first two courses are theatre enough, but the best show is saved until last. After a certain hour, a converted Singer sewing machine emerges piled with the classic fantasies of every dessert lover. Paris Brest. Mille-feuille. Rum-baba. Floating islands. Macarons. Sablé. Chocolate mousse. And there’s no need to push your spoon in someone else’s plate to have a try, because you’re offered a piece of everything you like. It is outrageous and it is heaven. For those without a sweet tooth, there’s a cheese chariot too.
Chef Xavier Vulliez is from the neighbouring Savoyard countryside and his flair in the kitchen is matched with Hans Chobert, who brings equal flair to the dining room. They made a deliberate choice to keep their extensive wine list navigable and strictly under 100 CHF a bottle. They also maintain their 40 CHF lunchtime offer for three courses, which is phenomenal value.
If you ask Xavier and Hans why they’re open Monday to Friday only, they’ll insist it’s because they deserve a weekend too.
“We don’t throw anybody out though,” Hans told me, “People can stay and have a drink on our terrace all afternoon if they like.” Having once stayed until almost two in the morning on a weeknight, I can vouch that he’s telling the truth.
Trust us, this one is worth getting the train for.
Le Bologne
Rue Necker 11
1201 Geneva
Monday - Friday
12pm-3pm
7pm-12am
Vanessa Tracey is a contributing writer to the Lausanne Guide. You can also read her on Substack.
The Bologne’s menu has changed since this piece was written. You can find out what’s on here.*
