We slipped through the automated sliding doors and felt ourselves cross a threshold—one world’s familiar hum giving way to another’s electric pulse. Denis Tiraboschi guided us to our place: a lone table tucked into the frenetic heart of the kitchen. The "Chef’s Table" at EHL's pedagogical restaurant 1893, alive with sizzling pans and aromatic currents, held both seduction and suspense. Some might find that immersive chaos overwhelming; we sat back knowing we were in for something unforgettable.
At the helm was Chef Michel de Matteis, whose mischievous grin belied a résumé of serious pedigree. In 1988, he won the Pierre Taittinger International Culinary Prize. Three years later, he earned the coveted title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France while working at La Tour d’Argent in Paris. Before joining EHL in 2020, he spent sixteen years as Executive Chef at the Royal Palm Hotel in Mauritius. Today, as Lecturer of Practical Arts at EHL, he channels that blend of precision, passion, and generosity into every service--training the next generation of chefs right in front of their diners’ eyes.
He caught our glance with a twinkle and joked that if service grew busy, we might have to jump in on the line. Then, with the ease of someone who has spent decades leading kitchens, he moved through his brigade—calling out orders, correcting garnishes, torching rosemary until the air smelled faintly of smoke and pine.
The revelation? These were students on only their third day of class. Many had never stepped into a professional kitchen, yet here they were, calmly plating soufflés au Vacherin Fribourgeois and ravioli of local perch with dill, fennel, and lemon butter. The expectations were high, but so was the pride. We couldn’t help but notice the confidence already taking root.
Though we had ordered our set menu, Chef de Matteis returned with a copper dish and a grin: “c’est très légère, don’t worry.” A soufflé of cheese and mushrooms arrived, impossibly airy, a secret shared between us and the kitchen. Sometimes, the best seat in the house is right beside the chef.
For those unfamiliar, EHL (École hôtelière de Lausanne) is widely considered the world’s top hospitality school. Its campus restaurants aren’t just dining venues; they are living classrooms where students learn the choreography of service, the discipline of the kitchen, and the delicate art of making guests feel at home. Among them, 1893—named for the school’s founding year—has long been the jewel. Recently reopened, the restaurant now blends retro-modern interiors with a contemporary, seasonal approach. Guests can reserve as they would at any fine-dining address in Lausanne, but every plate is both instruction and performance.
Our own meal told the story: pumpkin soup with shards of crispy chorizo; braised beef rib with seasonal vegetables and barbecue glaze; a café gourmand with four jewel-like pastries. Across the table, beef carpaccio with herb oil, and that lake-inspired ravioli; delicate yet decisive.
What struck us most was how local it all felt. The menu traced nearly every ingredient to regional producers, while the ceramics beneath our forks came from Poterie du Tunnel here in Lausanne. It’s these details that tether 1893 to its place, reminding you this is not just a teaching kitchen, but a restaurant rooted in its terroir.
Walking back through those sliding doors, it was hard to shake the sense that we’d witnessed something rare. Not just a meal, but a process: students stepping into their craft in real time, under the steady gaze of masters. In a city already rich with restaurants, 1893 stands apart—not only fine dining, but fine dining in motion. And it’s precisely that spirit of daring—nurtured here at EHL—that continues to shape Lausanne, fueling the graduates who go on to open some of the city’s most exciting restaurants, cafés, and bars.
TLG Tip: If you go for lunch, book early and ask for the Chef’s Table—there’s only one, and it puts you right in the middle of the kitchen action.
And while you’re on campus, stop by the brand-new Accademia Vergnano, a collaboration between Italy’s oldest coffee roaster and EHL. It’s both a training ground and an innovation hub for all things coffee—from brewing and cupping to the business of beans—and well worth a visit for any caffeine devotee.
1893 by EHL
Route de Berne 301,
CH-1000 Lausanne 25
Phone +41 (0)21 785 18 93
Book your table here
